I recently had the opportunity to visit Madeira Island, off the coast of Portugal, with two other golf writers to learn about golf on the Island and the culture of Madeira. Set in the North Atlantic Ocean, about 370 miles off the northwest coast of Africa and 620 miles southwest of Lisbon, Madeira certainly has a lot to offer. Madeira is part of a Portuguese archipelago, which includes the islands of Madeira, Porto Santo, and the Desertas. It is the kind of place you’ll want to book time and time again. Roughly half of the population of these islands lives in Funchal, the capital city of Madeira.
Madeira is the birthplace of soccer superstar Cristiano Ronaldo, has spectacular scenery and unique cuisine, and is famously known for its fortified wine. On July 4, 1776, the USA’s founding fathers used Madeira wine to toast the signing of the Declaration of Independence.
Golf in Madeira is unique, with superb courses designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr., Seve Ballesteros, and a soon-to-be-completed course by Nick Faldo, complemented by the Island’s laid-back vibe.
The trip began with a flight from Boston to Lisbon, Portugal, and then continued to Madeira Island on TAP Air Portugal (https://www.flytap.com/en-us). The staff of TAP Air Portugal, from the counter staff to flight attendants, were among the friendliest I have ever encountered in all my years of flying. TAP Air Portugal flies directly to Lisbon from many U.S. cities, including Boston, New York, Newark, Chicago, Washington, Los Angeles, and San Francisco. I learned that when traveling with TAP Air Portugal, you can take advantage of the Portugal Stopover program (https://www.flytap.com/en-pt/stopover). You can lay over in any city on your flight itinerary for up to ten days without incurring any additional fees and receive a 25% discount on any flights to other Portuguese destinations, a nice bonus for the traveling golfer or tourist. If you’re connecting via Lisbon, you can add the TAP Air Portugal lounge to your ticket or pay for access upon arrival. With a layover of more than three hours, it’s well worth it. Once inside, all drinks (including beer and wine), food, and snacks are included, and the atmosphere is noticeably calmer than in the main terminal.
Born out of volcanic activity over five million years ago, the Island is characterized by its rugged coastline and dramatic mountains that rise above the clouds, wrapped in lush subtropical vegetation that immediately makes you feel a world away from home.
As the Island is neither large nor flat (35 miles long and 13 miles wide), houses and buildings climb steadily up the rising landscape, linked by winding roads into the hills. It makes for a remarkable sight when you’re landing by plane or coming into the dock on the ferry. At the same time, the singular road from the airport into the capital city of Funchal hugs the coastline and sweeps over steep ravines running down from the Island’s peaks.
We stayed at Vila Baleira Funchal, just outside the bustling center but still within walking distance of it all, a spot I thought was ideal. The hotel was well-appointed, featuring spacious rooms, a rooftop bar, and a pool overlooking the inviting blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean. If you plan to spend days exploring the city, venturing further across the Island, playing top-class golf courses, or dipping into the natural pools carved out of the rocky coastline, it’s a bright and dependable base. If, however, you’re after a bigger hotel with lazy afternoons by the pool, more on-site activities, and wider food options, you’ll find plenty of four- and five-star choices that give you the best of both worlds.
What to do in Funchal
Funchal is a very walkable city, though you’ll need to be prepared for semi-regular inclines and declines as you wind your way through the 600-year-old capital, but it’s well worth the exercise. Around every corner, you’ll find quaint restaurants and bars, with historic architecture and vibrant colors along the way.
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Beyond the meandering strolls and the gems you’ll stumble across, there are plenty of activities and outings that make Funchal a genuinely fun base for exploring Madeira.
You can start with a ride on the cable car up to Monte or the Botanical Garden, where the views over the city and the Atlantic are sensational, and the gardens themselves are lush and peaceful. From Monte, you can hop into one of the iconic wicker-basket carts for an exhilarating ride back down into Funchal.
 Credit: Francisco Correia |
 Credit: Miguel Moniz |
Or, if you’re after something more active, there are hiking trails that lead out from the city, some following the Island’s levadas (old irrigation channels unique to Madeira, now doubling as scenic walking trails through mountains and forests), others climbing high into the hills with spectacular views. Or, if the sea is calling, you could surf, sail, paddleboard, or head out from Funchal harbor on a whale and dolphin-watching tour, where you’ve a great chance of spotting them in the wild.
All in all, Funchal is an excellent spot for either a whole week or just a few days before heading off to another part of the Island. And whether you’re taking it easy or packing in a full itinerary, it’s a place that always has more to offer than meets the eye.
Golf on Madeira
Santo da Serra
Looking over the bay of Machico, where the Portuguese navigators first landed on Madeira Island, lies the Santo da Serra Golf Club.
The original course, opened in 1937, was redesigned in 1991 by the renowned golf architect Robert Trent Jones, who created a completely new and spectacular 27-hole golf course set in one of the most beautiful landscapes that nature has to offer.
The MACHICO and DESERTAS courses are the ones that are usually played on the Madeira Island Open, while the SERRAS Course, although slightly plain, maintains the same game level.
Credit: NunoAndrade
The Madeira Islands Open was a long-running stop on the European Tour, first played in 1993 and running until 2015. Most years, it was hosted at Santo da Serra, with a brief stint at Porto Santo Golf between 2009 and 2011. In its later years, it became one of two European Tour events held in Portugal each season, alongside the Portugal Masters, and gave the Island a regular spot on the professional golfing map.
The Machico Course is a standout for its dramatic coastal scenery and challenging layout. This course features some of the most iconic holes on the Island, including the 3rd and 4th, which are perched over 2,200 feet above the Atlantic Ocean, offering breathtaking views of Machico Bay. The par-3 4th plays 202 yards off the tips; the tee shot forces you over another plunge down the mountainside, thick with vegetation and trees, into a green that clings to the cliff edge. From there, you look out across the bay and the Atlantic from 1,000 feet above sea level; a view, and a hole that you’ll remember for years to come.
Par-3 4th Hole
Credit: Henrique Seruca
The Desertas Course offers golfers a mix of challenging terrain and stunning natural beauty. This course is known for its elevation changes and the memorable par-five 2nd hole, which presents a significant drop towards a lake-guarded fairway. The Desertas Course complements its sister course, Machico, by providing a diverse and exciting golf experience, all set against the backdrop of Madeira’s spectacular landscapes.
The Serras Course provides a tranquil golfing experience, ideal for players of all skill levels. Set inland, this course is surrounded by lush, mountainous scenery, offering a peaceful environment with wide fairways and a variety of hole designs. The Serras Course is perfect for those seeking a more relaxed round, while still enjoying the challenge and natural beauty that characterize all courses at Santo da Serra.
Credit: Digital Couple
Porto Santo
Porto Santo was the next stop. It is the second inhabited Island in the Madeira archipelago, just 7 miles long and 4 miles wide, and situated approximately 50 miles from Madeira itself. It is reachable by a quick 25-minute flight from Funchal or a 2-hour ferry ride. We took the plane ride over in the morning and had a relaxing ferry ride back at the end of the day. The ferry is more like a small cruise ship, with many lounges and even a sit-down dining room offering wait service.
The Island’s showpiece is its 6-mile stretch of golden sand, soft and powdery, washed by turquoise Atlantic waters. The locals swear by its natural healing qualities, thanks to the sand’s unique makeup, but whether you believe in that or not, it’s the perfect place to switch off and unwind.
Away from the beach, Vila Baleira is the Island’s hub, with narrow streets and the Christopher Columbus House Museum as a reminder of its history. Beyond town, trails and paths criss-cross the landscape, ideal for walking or cycling through Porto Santo’s unspoiled scenery.
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Safe, welcoming, and wonderfully laid-back, Porto Santo works just as well for a complete holiday as it does for a quick escape alongside a trip to Madeira. And, in the center of the Island, is the spectacularly unique Porto Santo Golf Club.
Porto Santo’s golf course, designed by Seve Ballesteros, stretches all the way across the Island from dune-rolling beach to dramatic basalt cliffs. It offers that ideal combination – natural beauty and a challenging game. The layout was designed to blend in with the natural landscape, and considerable care was taken to minimize its environmental impact. The course comprises 18 holes over 7,000 yards, with a par of 72. It features two distinct personalities – a South Course in the American tradition, dotted with lakes and demanding a long, precise game; and a North Course played along spectacular cliff tops, evoking a links-like feel.
The standout stretch is 13 to 15, where the views are jaw-dropping and the golf unforgiving.
Credit: Francisco Correia
True to Seve’s style, the layout has 6 par-3s, 6 par-4s, and 6 par-5s, giving the round a rhythm all of its own. Being one of my golf idols, getting the chance to play a Seve Ballesteros course was a highlight of the trip. After just a few holes, it is evident that this place had Seve written all over it. No internal out-of-bounds, only a handful of lateral hazards, and beyond that, you could hit it anywhere (within reason). If you find it, you play it, and then scramble like mad to keep your score intact, as I did on several holes, especially number 18, where I scrambled for par from the tenth fairway.
Porto Santo Golf is rugged and rural; the course looks as nature intended. From the first tee to the last green, it’s a course that offers a mix of variety and clever touches, demanding both smart decisions and solid shots.
Whether it’s the sand, the scenery, or Seve’s handiwork that brings you to the Island, Porto Santo is the kind of place you’ll be glad you made time for.
There is also a nine-hole ‘pitch-and-putt‘ course of par-three holes (ideal for training precision shots), and a driving range. The clubhouse is a triumph of modern design, yet it blends harmoniously into the landscape, with its dry-stone walling, natural wood, and hip wicker furniture. Facilities include a sauna and Jacuzzi, as well as a well-stocked pro shop. The Golf Club bar and restaurant command a splendid view over the Island and out to sea.
Palheiro Golf
At nearly 500 m (1640 ft) above sea level, Palheiro Golf is blessed with dramatic views of Madeira’s mountainous skyline and the vast Atlantic Ocean. Nestled below, just 10 minutes away, is Funchal, the Island’s capital.
Credit: Nuno Andrade
Set within the magnificent Palheiro Nature Estate and lying adjacent to the five-star Madeira Island Hotel Casa Velha do Palheiro – a Relais & Châteaux property – the 18-hole, par 72 championship golf course meanders through a pristine environment of maritime pine and botanical woodland embroidered with lush, sub-tropical vegetation. Designed by renowned golf architect Cabell B. Robinson, this picturesque layout with year-round appeal takes full advantage of Madeira’s hilly terrain, with abrupt ridges and deep valleys providing a compelling challenge for even the most seasoned golfer.
Creidt: Nuno Andrade
The course features many memorable risk-reward holes with spectacular views, with the 18th hole giving you a stunning finish. Rock groupings in view from the tee show the safe left-hand limits of the landing area. The elevated center of the fairway has a dazzling view out to the ocean and down to the green and clubhouse in the pines. The confident and adventurous can go for the green through the opening to the right of the cypress. Conservative players have a lot of fairway to hit to the left of the tree. Eagles to double bogeys – everything is possible on this finishing hole.
Credit:Nuno Andrade
Set beneath the 18th green at Madeira Island’s Palheiro Golf, the Vista Balancal Restaurant sits high above Funchal, affording a glorious panorama of the bay, the mountains, and the Atlantic Ocean.
Ponta do Pargo
Madeira is adding to its golfing landscape with the Ponta do Pargo Golf Course, designed by six-time major champion Sir Nick Faldo. This addition promises a unique experience for golf enthusiasts. Located in the village of Ponta do Pargo, the golf course is situated at one of the most picturesque spots on the Island. The village is perched on the edge of a cliff on Madeira’s western tip, providing players with an unmatched view of the Atlantic Ocean.
Credit: Francisco Correia
Scheduled to open in 2026, Sir Nick Faldo and his team crafted a par-72 layout that seamlessly blends with Madeira’s natural beauty. The course features over 600 feet of elevation changes, challenging golfers while showcasing stunning scenic vistas. Three greens sit near the cliff edge, offering breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean. The 16th green is situated next to the historic Farol do Ponta do Pargo lighthouse, which was built in 1922.
During our visit, we had the opportunity to walk part of the course and see it taking shape. The course won’t have just one signature hole, but several. One of the standout holes on the course will be the 10th hole. This challenging par 3 requires a precise tee shot over a deep ravine, with the Atlantic Ocean below. The green sits on a raised plateau, surrounded by natural obstacles, making it a memorable hole both for its difficulty and its beauty.
For golf enthusiasts visiting Madeira, Ponta do Pargo Golf Course is a must-play. With its stunning views, challenging layout, and peaceful atmosphere, it offers an experience unlike any other on the Island.
If you’re planning to visit Madeira, be sure to add Ponta do Pargo Golf Course to your itinerary for a golfing experience that will leave you with unforgettable memories.
Madeira Golf Passport
For anyone after a golf-heavy trip, here’s some good news: the Madeira Golf Passport offers excellent value across the Island’s three courses. For $340 per person, you receive three complete rounds at Santo da Serra or Palheiro Golf, or a combination of both, all valid for a period of two weeks. Tee times can even be pre-booked directly with the clubs before you travel.
If you’d like to add Porto Santo to the mix, a $485 option is available. This gives you four complete rounds across Santo da Serra, Palheiro, and Porto Santo Golf, again valid for two weeks, with tee times bookable in advance.
For the keenest golfers, the $490 package includes five complete rounds at Santo da Serra and Palheiro, or a combination of both, over two weeks, with pre-bookable tee times, allowing you to tailor your holiday to meet your golfing needs.
Cuisine
Due to Madeira’s geographic location in the Atlantic Ocean, the Island has an abundance of fish of various kinds. Espada might be the most popular dish; it is usually fried in a batter and accompanied by fried bananas, and sometimes a passionfruit sauce. There are many different meat dishes on Madeira, one of the most popular being espetada, which is traditionally made of large chunks of beef rubbed in garlic, salt, and bay leaf and marinated for 4 to 6 hours in Madeira wine, red wine vinegar, and olive oil, then skewered onto a bay laurel stick and left to grill over smouldering wood chips. Also, don’t leave Madeira without trying Bolo do Caco, a garlicky flatbread that seems to appear at every meal, and Poncha, a signature drink of Portugal.
 Credit Holger-Leue |
 Credit Nuno Andrade |
The best times to visit Madeira are during spring and autumn, when the weather is mild and the crowds are fewer, making it ideal for outdoor activities. Summer is perfect for beach lovers, but it can be crowded. In contrast, winter offers mild temperatures and fewer tourists, making it an ideal time to experience the Island’s waterfalls.
I had never been to Portugal, never mind Madeira, and I am already looking forward to returning. There’s something special about the Island; be it the sights, strolling the streets of Funchal, exploring the landscape and activities, or enjoying the unique golf courses, you won’t be disappointed, and it almost certainly won’t be your last time visiting Portugal.
